Shampoo bar soap works very well, is a lot better for you and is very economical. This is where making your own soap saves you a lot of money and frustration (shampoos that don't perform).
It's not as complicated as some natural soap outlets would have you think as it is a rebranded natural bar soap with the recipe tweeked to give it more lather. The special nourishing oils that people advertise for shampoo soap are the same nourishing oils use to make natural soap. While it is good, to make it seem particularly different from any other natural soap is an illusion - one that entices you to spend more money on something you may not have needed.
You can use any natural soap, however we do like lots of lather. Bubbles don't clean, they just make us feel good in our minds. An exceptionally hard bar (economical) may be take longer to spread the soap over long hair. A very soft bar will waste quickly.
Using a natural soap recipe, we can now individualise it to your needs.
Dry hair, increase the super fat or free oil in the soap recipe.
Oily hair reduce this.
Dandruff and scalp conditions, choose Essential Oils that are known to help these conditions. See the end of this post for a specific anti-dandruff shampoo.
Vinegar or Citric Acid Rinse
If you don't rinse your hair in an acidic conditioner you probably will end up with hair that feels like straw. The benefits of rinsing are less tangles and my hair doesn't get oily the next day. Having long hair I don't want to wash it every day. It may be individual how strong you make this. Vary it till you are happy with the result. 50/50 vinegar/water works.
Vinegar smells when you rinse but not when it dries. Citric acid doesn't not smell. I keep a spray bottle in the shower for the final rinse.
If you like pretty smells there is no reason why you can't mist your hair with an Essential Oil after you have washed it.
See my September posts for directions on making soap if you have never done this before.
Coconut Oil Soap- awesome lather
800gm Coconut oil
117gm Lye (Sodium Hydroxide) 20% Super Fat
280gm Filtered or distilled water.
24gm Essential Oils of choice.
(I use 16gm Lavender and 8 Lemon Myrtle - but you could use Lemon Balm or Lemon Grass with similar effect and smell)
Coconut oil soap is normally a very strong cleaning, but drying soap. With the super fat so high it offsets the drying. Normally you could not use a super fat so high (the soap would become a oily blob) with a standard recipe but the extreme hardness of the coconut soap allows for this.
It should not become rancid with such a high superfat very quickly as coconut oil has a long shelf life.
There are two more recipes in my Septembers blog, Tips and Recipes that have a good lather. The higher the castor oil (15%) which helps create lather has its draw back in that it doesn't tolerate sitting in water very well and will waste (dissolve) if you don't care for it.
If you have very dry hair and the Coconut Oil soap is drying, try the recipe: A Very Good Soap (Septembers blog)and add a further 30gm of Olive Oil once the soap has reached trace. This will bring the super fat up to 8%. I like to use this as a milk soap for my shampoo.
Many people who changed from commercial shampoos to natural soap have found their heads stopped itching. Some don't have the oil problems they had and experience far less scalp problems - which can be treated naturally.
You may find it takes a little while for your oil secretions to settle down after changing from shampoo.
Shampoos and conditioners cost a lot of money over the year, are full of chemicals and create problems that send you to buy more expensive shampoos to fix.
I have read that natural soap as shampoo doesn't affect the dyes and bleaches people use on their hair and they done't have to get them redone so quickly if they use the acidic final rinse. This is far better as the less you re do this the better as bleaches and dyes have strong links to miscarriage amongst other problems.
For an excellent natural anti-dandruff shampoo see my April 2016 post. Inexpensive and effective.
Solid Anti-dandruff Bar plan
I am making a solid bar soap with a higher level of honey and essential oils such as Melaluca (Tea Tree), Clove, Lemon Grass or Lemon Myrtle and Lavender which are all good anti-fungal's.
Two Tablespoons of honey per kg of oil is usually quite a high level and the mould will need to be put in the freezer while it hardens to stop it over heating. I will try a higher level (4 Tablespoons) of honey in a harder bar recipe and use individual bar moulds (helps cooling) and freeze. I will use cold process and only about 30% water, adding the honey at trace.
If this works it will be more convenient as my husband has problems with shampoo bottle lids since a head injury slowed his left hand down.
Will keep you updated
As soon as I added the honey, EO's the soap batter became a strong orangey colour. I put the moulds in the freezer as soon as I had filled them. They had become quite hot, quickly. I sat them on cooler packs so it was colder quicker and left them over night. They have been slower to harden up but have become a light brown/creamy colour. Otherwise they are behaving like normal soap thus far.
I think I would put them in the fridge on cooler packs next time as the individual bar moulds wont hold the heat like a log mould.
A week later. It took a few days for the pH to drop which I think is a result of freezing it. It also took longer to harden up but after a week + my sample bar is firm and bubbly.